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Chapter
Eclectic dialectics
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Des O’Rawe
Published: 01 January 2016
... 1928– Vogue Barthes Roland Harper’s Bazaar Lieberman Alexander Penn Irving Gaultier Jean Paul Ballet mécanique Léger and Murphy 1924 mystère Babilée Le Bensard 2000 Lang Fritz Cleaver Eldridge Dada Welles Orson William Klein Street photography Fashion photography Roland Barthes May 68...
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Hibernation
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Catriona McAra
Published: 29 November 2022
... and eco-feminist research. Indeed, Carrington has much to offer current debates around the politics of balancing a creative practice with parenthood. The Canadian-Ukrainian writer and fashion designer, Heidi Sopinka (b.1971), recently published The Dictionary of Animal Languages (2018), a novel based...
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The regal catwalk: royal weddings and the media promotion of British fashion
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Jo Stephenson
Published: 01 March 2016
...On the March 9, 2012 lTV morning television show Daybreak, British fashion expert Caryn Franklin said of the Duchess of Cambridge: “she certainly does generate an enormous amount of money for the fashion industry. Anything she wears sells out instantly and certainly some of her...
Chapter
Houses, food, clothes
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Caitriona Clear
Published: 01 October 2007
... that people of all ages were going out in public more, and so needed presentable clothes. Improved communications and a thriving retail sector disseminated fashion into the smallest towns. Clare Congested Districs Board Coulter Henry housing Living standards Poor Law Down Dublin furniture Galway...
Chapter
Fashioning the eye and seeing, 1830–1904
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Gemma Almond-Brown
Published: 05 September 2023
... upon newspapers and periodicals, opticians’ account books, medical case accounts, material culture and photographs to demonstrate that, like other dress accoutrements such as the fan or parasol, visual aids were not a trivial accessory. To wear them was to fashion the face, encompassing more than...
Chapter
architecture and affordances
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Kieron O'Hara
Published: 18 July 2023
... pornography Rembrandt withdrawal community crime criminal records Etzioni Amitai Internet Megan’s laws photography photographs sex Dickens Charles freedom of information obscurity organisations secrecy welfare Google Privacy obscurity fashion cost-benefit analysis privacy design cookies...
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Introduction: stitching together gender, textile and garment labor, and heritage in Asia
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Melia Belli Bose
Published: 06 February 2024
...-scale textile/garment production to the rise of ‘fast’ or ‘disposable’ fashion – cheap and quickly made garments that are often also quickly discarded. It also considers the recent emergence of heritage textile and garment revival efforts. The role of gender is key in each of these turns...
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Gendered blue: women’s jeans in postwar Taiwan
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Ying-chen Peng
Published: 06 February 2024
... and critiques are examined to illuminate the gendered history of blue jeans in modern Taiwan. jeans Levi Strauss consumerism globalization Qing Empire photograph ‘Thirteen Gals’ Taiwan Women’s Monthly Fashion ’n Fashions dye embroidery indigo Lin Brigitte Miao people work Japan nationalism Levi...
Chapter
The politics of wastefulness and ‘the poetics of waste’:1 Ruby Chishti’s sartorial interventions
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Saleema Waraich
Published: 06 February 2024
... desire for clothing has reached crisis levels, with fast – or ‘throwaway’ – fashion destructively changing the relationship between people and the clothes they wear, and wreaking havoc on the environment by affecting climate change and creating mountains of waste. This chapter focuses on Ruby Chishti...
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How do you dress like a Pole?
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Tomasz Grusiecki
Published: 05 December 2023
... questions continue to emerge about stylistic Ottomanization of costume in Poland Lithuania: How are we to understand the seeming paradox of adapting Islamic fashions for the needs of a predominantly Christian noble society? How could the exotic be identified as native without raising the eyebrows...
Chapter
Published: 01 January 2019
... the preceding ones by analyzing the exhibition’s loaded cross-cultural hybrids of art-fashion-celebrity culture and Sino-US corporate sponsorship. The chapter argues that “China: Through the Looking Glass” might have countered the critique that the exhibition did not adequately present contemporary Chinese...
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‘Clothes are our weapons’: dandyism, fashion and subcultural style in Angela Carter’s fiction of the 1960s
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Catherine Spooner
Published: 01 July 2019
... fashion hippies gender dandyism subculture 1960s counter culture Carter’s fiction is replete with references to clothes and, in particular, to the heady possibilities afforded by dressing up: Melanie in The Magic Toyshop (1967) , climbing a tree in her mother’s wedding...
Chapter
Published: 02 December 2020
... and interface to extend the possibilities of electronic knitting. creativity digital fabrication Fry Tony Milan redirective practice Romano Zoe counter precarity defuturing Massey Doreen open source Precarias a la deriva Arduino digital fashion Hardt Michael makerspaces orientation devices Fab...
Book
Political and Sartorial Styles: Britain and Its Colonies in the Long Nineteenth Century
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Kevin A. Morrison (ed.)
Published online: 21 September 2023
Published in print: 24 January 2023
... this volume focuses a man’s affair, the predominant, although not exclusive, focus on men and masculinity – an underrepresented area in scholarship on fashion and style – is a distinguishing characteristic of this work....
Book
Published online: 20 May 2021
Published in print: 13 October 2020
Book
Published online: 21 January 2021
Published in print: 24 March 2020
... the fields of product design, graphic design, fashion design, and architecture. It created conceptually challenging artefacts and made decisions that radically altered the course of Japanese design history. The avant-garde works that were created in the sphere of popular culture communicated a form of visual...
Chapter
Published: 24 January 2023
... thought deeply about fashion. They also happened to be known for their apparel. The chapter begins with an examination of Spencer’s ‘Manners and Fashion’, which considers how trends in dress – prescribing aspects of deportment that are chiefly personal – impinge on individual liberty. It then proceeds...
Chapter
Published: 06 February 2024
...: if strong enough, such a reaction may inspire viewers to buy more ethically and demand grassroots changes, thus transforming her garment factory-themed art into a small but powerful act of resistance to a global system of structural violence. Bangladesh Rana Plaza fast fashion globalization Tazreen...
Chapter
Another maybe
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Catriona McAra
Published: 29 November 2022
...Chapter 2 is a consideration of Carrington in the realm of fashion photography and performance art, leading to a discussion around cult status intersecting with pop culture. Tim Walker and Tilda Swinton (b.1960) summoned Leonora Carrington most potently in two iconic fashion stories, firstly for W...
Chapter
Introduction: ‘What’s she like?’
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Felicity Chaplin
Published: 27 August 2017
... modernity’ and ‘more than just a female inhabitant of Paris’ is then offered. Both the technological (railways, printing press, fashion plates, photography) and cultural (art, literature, advertising, print media) developments in nineteenth-century France which provided the basis for the emergence...