Documenting Fashion
Documenting Fashion
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Abstract
Feuds within fashion houses, megalomaniacs and photoshoot nightmares – fashion and drama have been a perfect match for decades. Over the past ten years, we have also witnessed a boom of different forms of non-fiction storytelling about magazine editors, fashion and media politics and the history of fashion houses. How and why did fashion documentaries and other non-fiction media become so popular? This book explores and reassesses the role of documentary media in shaping our understanding of fashion across multiple media platforms and different national contexts, including photography, industrial films, newsreels, TV shows, documentary feature films, online videos, and social media posts. The essays in this edited collection underpin and profile a scholarly space in which a dialogue between fashion and documentary studies can evolve, by drawing from different methodologies and approaches, such as media and cultural studies, ethnography, archival studies, gender studies, sociology, marketing and public relations. The book pushes forward new understandings of how different media and platforms, such as online videos, fashion exhibitions, and industrial films, interrogate ‘the real’ in relation to fashion, by investigating the bearings of the documentary image and its visual politics in relation to fashion. Documenting Fashionconsiders a wide range of both contemporary and historical case studies, including analysis of fashion documentaries, including Bill Cunningham New York(2010), McQueen(2018) and Unposted(2019), fashion series on television, Queer Eye(2018), and documentary fashion footage in exhibitions.
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Front Matter
- Introduction
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Part I Film
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1
Fashion documentaries and the tension between celebratory and critical approaches
- Expanding interview 1 Elena Caoduro in conversation with Lorna Tucker, director of Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist (2018)
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2
‘The Helen Rose originals are fabulous’: the fashion featurette and fashion show as sites of industrial reflexivity
Julie Nakama
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3
The fashion of east and west in German cinema newsreels (1950–65)
Sigrun Lehnert
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4
‘Third way’ teenage fashion: housewives’ films documenting ideals of middle-class youth culture in 1950s Sweden
Mats Björkin
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5
A maverick on the streets: Bill Cunningham and the documentary process
Karen A. Ritzenhoff
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6
Extending the exhibition narrative: making sense of non-fiction fashion footage
- Expanding interview 2 Boel Ulfsdotter in conversation with Alexandra Palmer at Royal Ontario Museum, Canada
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1
Fashion documentaries and the tension between celebratory and critical approaches
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Part II Television
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Part III Digital media
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End Matter
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