
Contents
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Endemic and Non-Endemic Sponsors Endemic and Non-Endemic Sponsors
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From Personalities to Athletes: For the Lifestyle toward Building a Sport From Personalities to Athletes: For the Lifestyle toward Building a Sport
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Projects: Creating Stories to Sustain a Livelihood Projects: Creating Stories to Sustain a Livelihood
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Opportunity and Exposure Opportunity and Exposure
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Career Waves: Patience, Pacing, Knowledge, and Commitment Career Waves: Patience, Pacing, Knowledge, and Commitment
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Risk and Reward Risk and Reward
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Chasing Chasing
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A Contender A Contender
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Fear of Missing Out (FOMO) Fear of Missing Out (FOMO)
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Judging Aquatic Performances Judging Aquatic Performances
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Challenges in Scoring Challenges in Scoring
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Intention Intention
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The Nature of Aesthetic Judgment The Nature of Aesthetic Judgment
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From Chargers to Sharpshooters: Between Play, Entertainment, and Sport From Chargers to Sharpshooters: Between Play, Entertainment, and Sport
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Six From Adventure to Entertainment and toward Sport
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Published:June 2022
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Abstract
This chapter explores changes wrought on big wave surfing by the introduction and popularization of safety devices. It also analyzes different pathways through which athletes attempt to make a livelihood while pursuing this activity. Conceptually this chapter discusses risk-taking, status, and reputation. The author distinguishes between chargers (surfers who are known to take high risks, sometimes with little or no chance of success) and sharpshooters (surfers who are much more selective in their approach toward risk and invest their efforts toward higher risk/higher reward opportunities). While contenders tend to be chargers, established professionals are more likely to be, or aspire to be, sharpshooters. In this part of the book the author also discusses judging criteria, as well as how some professionals eventually realize that while they are just as likely to get hurt on a comparatively smaller wave as on an outstanding one, the latter could positively impact their careers, while the former wouldn’t do very much. In this respect experienced surfers talk about “career waves”—waves that will be admired and remembered. Those fateful moments can thus become valuable episodes in a surfer’s career while also marking breakthroughs within this social world.
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